Mae Hong Son Travel Guide

Located in the northwest corner of Thailand, bordering the Shan States of Burma, Mae Hong Son town is tucked between mountain ranges on all sides. It is often shrouded in mist giving it a mysterious and ethereal feel, and which also helps to keep the hillsides a deep green color in the rainy season.

A pretty lake fronted by Burmese-styled temples forms the center of the town, but there are many other reasons the tour buses stop over here. Crowds flock to see the bizarre long-necked Paduang women, hot springs and waterfalls, the remarkable cave systems at Soppong, and, of course, the endless vistas on the roller coaster road that connects it to Chiang Mai.

Mae Hong Son Attractions

Mae Hong Son Loop

Mae Hong Son province is perhaps Thailand’s most remote, yet it remains popular on two counts; its rural and rugged mountainous scenery offers an excellent three-day excursion known as ‘the Mae Hong Son Loop’, and the small laid-back town of Pai is a popular hangout for backpackers who come here to disappear for weeks.

Pai is the first stop on the ‘loop’ and is a delightful town set in a broad rice-field-covered valley among the uplands. Quaint bamboo bungalows line the meandering river, and there is a general cheap and unhurried, hippie character to the place which is why backpackers like to stay for weeks. Adventure activities are a main drawcard, including trekking, rafting the excellent rapids of the Pai river, caving and blackwater rafting, motocross riding, and even plenty of metaphysical pursuits such as yoga, meditation, reiki, and others offered by local foreign residents.

If you are driving ‘the Loop’ you’ll continue south after your stay in Mae Hong Son, through a fairly flat valley that runs parallel to the Myanmar border and it’s worth the detour to see the spectacular and lofty Mae Surin Falls. At Khum Yuam there is a small museum about Japanese soldiers who occupied the area during the Second World War and integrated themselves into the community, many subsequently never made it home after the surrender.

You have the choice to drive a sealed road from here directly to Doi Inthanon National Park and then back to Chiang Mai if time is limited. If you continue south you come to the pretty Mae Sariang town on the banks of a river, which is an ideal overnight stop, since the drive back to Chiang Mai from here is hilly and arduous. There is more of the lovely mountain scenery and a quaint rural northern town with guesthouses rather than hotels.

Over New Year Mae Hong Son gets crowded with Bangkok Thais, who find it the latest trendy destination, with its curious bohemian character and dreadlocked locals serving the coffee. By night the bars are lively with tourists, and there is often live music.

Mae Hong Son Town

Billed as the remotest town in Thailand, Mae Hong Son is a reasonably popular town mostly visited as part of a multi-day excursion on the ‘Mae Hong Son Loop’. The city itself is a quaint and unspoiled mountain destination that sits prettily in a small valley among manifold ranges and is more Burmese in character than Thai.

Though technically part of the Lanna region of north Thailand, a great number of the indigenous hill tribe people that populate the area are Thai Yai (Shan), one of the largest indigenous tribal groups in Southeast Asia. And the temples of Mae Hong Son are Burmese in design, making them distinctive from those found in other parts of the Kingdom’s northern reaches.

In the center of town, there is a small lake where a daily market is held on the banks. It is a quaint atmosphere around sunset when the locals stroll the streets for dinner or a snack and Wat Chong Kham becomes illuminated with strings of lights creating a pleasant and ambient glow. At dawn, it casts an enchanting impression reflected in this misty lake.

Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu

Just a short drive will take you to the hilltop temple of Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu. This temple, erected by Mae Hong Son’s first governor, leaves no doubt about its Burmese roots. A lookout just across the temple yard gives you a vantage point of the city and also of the surrounding mountain skylines. The temple offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains and valleys and is a popular spot for sunset.

Talat Chao Morning Market

If you want to get the full Mae Hong Son experience, the morning farmers market at Talat Chao is one attraction you simply can’t miss. The market bustles with locals doing their daily shopping and picking up some of the delicious Burmese-Shan food. It isn’t just food though – this morning market also offers an array of cheap clothes and fun souvenirs at surprisingly affordable prices. All in all, it makes for an authentic (and tasty!) way to spend a few hours if you’re in Mae Hongson!

Mae Ngao River Trecking

There are some great opportunities for trekking in the vicinity of Mae Hong Son and adequate travel agents are situated in the city. Mae Ngao River is a great area for adventure travelers. Mae Hong Son sees enough tourists and accommodates them in a variety of lodging options from small guesthouses to fairly decent hotels.

Rafting on Pai River

Activities in Mae Hong Son include rafting down the Pai river, although the starting point for this is in Pai. Trekking is another popular activity, offering a chance to really experience the rural mountainous interior of Asia, miles from civilization, but the region isn’t as pleasant in the dry season. 

One special event that city is famous for is the Poi Sang Long Festival in March when Shan boys are ordained as novice monks and dressed up and paraded around town.

Soppong and Pang Ma Pha

Midway between Pai and Mae Hong Son is the district of Pang Ma Pha and the small town of Soppong, noted for its unusual karst and limestone topography. In fact, the area is dotted with numerous caves offering spelunkers and amateurs some excellent exploration and even black water rafting on a subterranean river at Tham Lod (cave).

Cave Lodge is the best place to sign up for some caving.

If you’re just passing through you’ll find it more practical to stop off at Tham Pla National Park which has some easily reachable caves noted for the large carp that have prospered off the nutrients flowing from the caves. Pha Bong Hotsprings is also on the route, just before you reach Mae Hong Son. With a bit of extra time, you can make the excursion to Mae Aw, a remote village populated with descendants of the Chinese KMT who settled here 50 years earlier.

How to Get to Mae Hong Son

Mae Hong Son province is probably Thailand’s most remote settlement of any real size and so can be difficult to get to. But there are daily flights to Pai and Mae Hong Son from Chiang Mai, which is the quickest and easiest way to get to both destinations.

However, most visitors arrive either by tour bus doing the ‘Mae Hong Son Loop’ or local bus to Pai, both of which have to traverse some windy mountain roads which offer stunning scenery but take four to seven hours (Pai or Mae Hong Son).

Flights to Mae Hong Son and Pai

There are several flights a day with both Nok Air and Kan Air, taking just over half an hour and a quick turnaround for the return to Chiang Mai. Flights to both are limited to small aircraft due to runway restrictions, therefore you can only fly from Chiang Mai.

Buses to Pai and Mae Hong Son

Buses depart from the Arcade (main) bus station in Chiang Mai for Mae Hong Son every couple of hours or so from 07:00 to around 16:00. All pass through Pai after roughly four hours, though the last bus doesn’t go as far as Mae Hong Son.

The total journey can be up to eight hours for the 300km route due to windy mountain roads. You’re advised to pre-buy your ticket for the earliest departure, as buses get crowded. In the reverse direction buses leave Mae Hong Son for Chiang Mai (via Pai) from 07:00 to 16:00.

In the busy season, there are also songthaew minibusses that will depart if enough passengers are waiting–it’s even affordable for a group of four or more travelers to charter one–but sitting side-facing in the back of these for three windy hours can result in awful travel sickness. Semi-comfortable air-conditioned, private minibusses also ply the route, so it’s worth enquiring with local travel agents and guesthouses.

Buses to Mae Hong Son also take the southern route (the ‘Loop’ n reverse) via Mae Sariang five times a day on slightly bigger and more comfortable buses from the Arcade bus station.

Hire a car or bike

This is a popular option since you get to stop off at leisure to see points of interest along the way such as Huay Nam Dang National Park, Pong Deut hotsprings, the Soppong caves, and some waterfalls. Particularly adventurous is to do the whole ‘Loop’ on an off-road bike. There are plenty of other places around town offering Honda and the like, although you are advised to take a 125cc model, especially if there are two of you on the bike. These step-thus are better in the mountains than scooters.

Car hire is available from several prominent local and international companies in town, though we recommend booking online in advance.

Warning! Driving habits in Thailand are generally poor and drivers can be reckless, especially when overtaking on blind corners on mountainous roads. The roads have a high accident rate and drivers should proceed with caution.